My Annual "Goodbye" to my Husband

It's that time of year when I say goodbye to my husband. He puts on his big rubber pants, camo clothes, picks up his Thermos, what seems like a months worth or groceries and sodas, puts on his necklace of duck and goose calls, and the one of leg bands, loads his ammo, guns, binoculars and decoys, into his pride and joy a 30' fully camo, duck grass covered, 60 horse powered, fully carpeted, "Duck Buster Assault Barge".


Oh, and did I forget to mention the stove and propane heaters. He does all this in the darkest, coldest part of the wee early morning hours as his alarm went off at 4:30am and he had been laying awake for an hour, waiting for the first beep that signaled opening day of the long awaited 'waterfowl season'.

This is something I can only sit on the sidelines and watch, I have never been bitten by this bug. I do my best to just stay out of the way for the months of preparation. I close the door at 6:30 am when be bounces out of bed to watch "Water Dog" or “Whistling Wings”, I try my best to comfort our little Jack Russell when the duck and goose calling practice begins, and I just vacuum around the decoys, and pick up the little pieces of twine left after trimming ends off the knots that tie on the decoy weights. I try to be nice when in the heat of the moment he forgets the time and wakes me at midnight from a sound asleep beginning a loud round of 'calling in the flock' with a new snow goose call. I have even quit trying to explain the fully assembled camo lay-out blind in the living room, and the calls lining the sink in bathroom. I tried not to look surprised when he came home with workout weights from the clearance rack, so proud of himself at the great sale he found, only to find out that now he would be buying a melting pot and molds to make his own decoy weights in the kitchen. I even got in the spirit a little after a year of duck boat camouflage grass in the living room, and I remodeled a bathroom into a duck blind and put the duck grass behind the toilet, this had the added advantage of eliminating the questions about those duck calls on the sink too. It also made a good place for the great invention of a hip boot/wader dryer, this contraption stands about 4 foot tall, with 2 pvc tubes sticking up into the air to hold the wet waders, and a glorified blow dryer to dry these boots out in time for the next days hunt. The new 'blind' bathroom with over head fan works great, because as I was surprised to find out swamp water, duck weed, and crushed cattails don't smell to good as they dry, and the dryer has enough out-put to disperse this fragrant air through out the house in very little time.

I can always tell goose season is getting close when all the batteries in the house get pushed into service for flashlights in the “Barge”, and every candle lighter finds it’s way into the propane stove box along with several pans and numerous kitchen utensils. The picnic basket loses all of it’s plastic plates and the fridge gets loaded with soda in plastic bottles. Some days even the front yard gets into the spirit as the 'spread' of decoys gets an evaluation before opening day.

I noticed a couple of days ago that the top of the freezer has become a re-charge haven for ‘robo-ducks’, this wonderful invention is a decoy on a stick, with whirly-gig wings that run off a rechargeable battery. It seems that one robo-duck is either lonely or afraid of the dark while in the marsh, as it needs several friends to keep it doing it’s job. All those friends with their batteries and of course the extra batteries ‘just in case’ have left several of the items in the house without extension cords. But hunting as I have found over the past 32 years has different priorities. During hunting season my hair dryer, my small office and kitchen TV, my bedroom radio, my phone re-charger and my curling iron all give up their extension cords to recharge robo-ducks. This year I have noticed a new addition to the top of the freezer, several cans of “Great Stuff”, this highly desirable can holds a kind of liquid Styrofoam, that swells up and become hard when dispersed. This is used, I am told, to fill small steel shot size holes that sometimes get in decoys unable to get out of the way in time. It is required to keep them from sinking or rolling on their side after one of these encounters. It seems that a little “Great Stuff” goes a long way as I noticed a box of several exploded decoys bursting from the seams with oozing Styrofoam globs.

In preparation for the pre-dawn departures of the 30’ “barge” behind that tank of a truck he drives, I have moved all the hanging flower baskets, the yard decorations, the house number sign and several of the large rocks that line the drive way. Last year, I found out this entourage requires an extremely large turning radius, increased dramatically it seems in the dark during 4:30am departures.

Since Labor Day is the opening day of early goose season and the last day of waterfowl in Michigan is February 1st, this is a long goodbye, I looked at John’s calendar hanging beside his camouflage recliner, between his mounted Buffleheads and Green Wing Teal and just below the Pintails, to confirm the dates. I see lots of highlighted dates, 5 days in Alabama duck hunting, a trip to the east coast for sea ducks between Christmas and New Years Day, and a trip to Mexico’s Laguna Madre with 10 other hunters in January, this trip according to the calendar seems to include a stop at the Dallas Safari Club Fundraiser and a hog hunt on the way home.

I also see a few days set aside for bear hunting in the U.P. with Scott, Bill and Brian in September, I am guessing this one will involve a few hours of scouting for waterfowl ’honey holes’ for opening day in the U.P. And I did notice the big smiley face on November 15 for opening day of firearm deer season, it definitely looks like a long goodbye.

I guess as soon as I say goodbye at 4:30am on Labor Day I had better start cleaning out the freezers for the 2008 bag limit. At least I know that the Muskegon Rescue Mission and places like Teen Challenge will be glad to see me coming with donations to their kitchens. And I had better go shopping for freezer bags and a new extension cord for my seal-a-meal.

Squirrel Rifle Tune-Up

Written by Steve Galea
Few game animals challenge the small-bore marksman like bushytails. To be consistently successful, you need to stack the odds in your favour.

When it comes to squirrel hunting, I'm a rifleman. Sure I see the practicality in using a shotgun, especially in the early season when the foliage is up and the squirrels are in the trees; but, the truth is, I love .22 caliber rifles and I'll take them afield any chance I get.
Besides, a .22 is precise, inexpensive to practice with, and doesn't damage meat like a shotgun might when the shots are close. If you ask me, the .22 calibre rifle was made with the challenge of squirrel hunting in mind.
Even so, before you go out in the squirrel woods, you should give your squirrel rifle and your own shooting skills an honest assessment and then a tune-up. My own squirrel tune-up routine isn't very complicated or even expensive for that matter, but it is thorough. Accuracy and knowing your effective range are the primary objectives; everything else is a distant second.
This is because, as we all know, the vitals in a squirrel (the head or just behind the shoulder) are not exactly huge targets, especially when the animal is 40 to 50 yards away, and acting jittery. In fact, I can't think of another hunting weapon where accuracy is nearly as important. And if you hunt outside your effective range, accuracy will always suffer. Here then are a few things that you might consider to make the most of your squirrel rifle and skills.
The Rifle
They say you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. This old saw also applies to squirrel rifles too. The unit you start with should be dependable in the field, easy to carry in the woods, and above all inherently accurate.
The last characteristic is the most important; I'd much rather have a tack driving single-shot than a repeater that's much less exact. After all, if you place your bullet precisely, only one shot is needed.
What is accuracy in a squirrel rifle? After fine-tuning and practice, I can shoot half-inch groups or better at 50 yards with my favourite squirrel rifle. I've never needed much more than that although many rifles and shooters are capable of it.
Optics
There are legions of squirrel hunters who like to keep things simple. They'll go afield with iron sights and do quite well. I've got a lot of respect for those guys; heck, I once used iron sights too. But back then, when it came to longer shots, it was definitely a hit or miss proposition.
A quality scope allows you to aim more precisely and increase your maximum effective range. These days, I use a quality scope on my .22. It allows me to aim more precisely and increase my maximum effective range on squirrels. Once you get the hang of using a scope, you'll never go back. Target acquisition, even on a moving squirrel is fast.
Mine is a fixed 4 X 32 unit designed specifically for .22 calibre rifles. This means it has a 50-yard parallax setting and adjusts 1/4-inch per click at 100 yards too. It's lightweight and balances well on my rifle. Even more important, it's fogproof and waterproof.
Many riflemen are fans of variable scopes such as 3-9 X 32s. There's nothing wrong with them, and I suppose if an undisturbed squirrel gives you a chance to dial in to the higher power, there might even be an advantage to them. On the flip side, they tend to be a little more expensive, and I'm not sure that they provide significant practical benefits at typical squirrel hunting ranges.
In the end, personal taste and the terrain you hunt in should dictate your choice.
The Bullets
Most rim fire enthusiasts consider the .22 long rifle bullet the only one for eastern gray and fox squirrel. Many, myself included, prefer a copper-jacketed hollow point bullet weighing anywhere from 36 to 40 grains. With well-placed shots, these put squirrel down quickly -- which is always an important consideration since a wounded squirrel might run off to a nest or knothole or even hang up high in the crotch of a tree.
When I'm about to fine tune my rifle for the field the first thing I do is buy several boxes of .22 cartridges that fall into the description previously mentioned. I try to get a variety of different bullet designs from various manufacturers.
I shoot groups with all of them until I determine which brand and type my rifle prefers. Of course, during testing all things should be equal including ranges, cleaned barrels, technique and good rests. After testing, you'll find one or two brands that will stand out as the best, meaning that they shoot tighter groups more consistently.
Take your time in this experimentation, and you'll be rewarded with a good hunting bullet that makes the most of your rifle's accuracy. After that, get to know what it does at different ranges. This selection process can make the difference between a full and empty game bag.
Shooting Aids
When in the field, I'll always try to use a rifle rest. This makes even more sense when confronted with small targets such as squirrels. Limbs or tree trunks, cedar rail fences, and the like all work fine, but these days, more often than not, I carry a set of shooting stix. They're handy as a pocket in a shirt and provide the rest required to make longer shots.
There are several excellent commercial models available but they're not difficult to make either; any on-line search will provide proven designs. In either case, make sure your sticks are long enough to allow you to make high angle shots too.
If you decide to use shooting sticks -- and I highly recommend that you give them a try -- it doesn't hurt to practice with them so that you don't waste time setting up when confronted with an undisturbed squirrel within rifle range.
Effective Range
these processes and gear are meant to help you become more accurate with your rifle within practical squirrel hunting ranges. But what is practical hunting range?
For me, this means the maximum range that I can consistently hit a 2-inch circle in field conditions. With an offhand shot, your limit might be 30 yards or so. When shooting from a sitting position with a good rest you might be able to reach out to 75 yards or more. Naturally, it differs depending on the shooter, his rifle, and several other factors. But you'll never know any of this until you go out and do some serious paper punching.
I take along a laser range finder, paper targets, and a lot of ammunition to determine my limits. You can forego the rangefinder, but it is nice. Some metallic rim fire targets are also just about the right size and fun to practice on.
The point is if you know your effective range, you're far more likely to make clean kills. If a squirrel is outside of that distance, you then have a good idea how much of a stalk you need to make before it's inside your practical range.
Conclusion
Few game animals challenge the small-bore marksman like bushytails. They're skittish, small, and crafty. To be consistently successful, you need to stack the odds in your favour. A simple tune-up like this can make all the difference when your only shot of the day is sitting unawares on a high limb some 60 yards away. Give it a try. Your game bag will thank you.

NO DEER BAITING IN LOWER PENINSULA

August 26, 2008
In the wake of Monday's announcement that Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) has been confirmed in a three-year old privately-owned white-tailed deer in Kent County, the Michigan Department of Natural Resources is acting immediately to implement provisions of the state's Surveillance and Response Plan for CWD.
Among the provisions is an immediate ban on all baiting and feeding of deer and elk in the Lower Peninsula. DNR conservation officers will step up surveillance and enforcement efforts on baiting. Baiting and feeding unnaturally congregate deer into close contact, thus increasing the transmission of contagious diseases such as CWD and bovine tuberculosis. Bait and feed sites increase the likelihood that those areas will become contaminated with the feces of infected animals, making them a source of CWD infection for years to come.
Additionally, the provisions include a mandatory deer check for hunters who take a deer within Tyrone, Solon, Nelson, Sparta, Algoma, Courtland, Alpine, Plainfield, and Cannon townships, which contain the CWD surveillance zone.

All hunters who take a deer during any deer hunting season this fall within the CWD surveillance zone will be required to visit a DNR deer check station so that their deer can be tested for CWD. The DNR currently is seeking locations for additional deer check stations in the area to make it more convenient for hunters. To prevent unintentional spread of CWD, the only parts of deer harvested in the surveillance zone that will be allowed to be transported out will be boned meat, capes, and antlers cleaned of all soft tissues.
In addition, all transport of live wild deer, elk and moose will be prohibited statewide, including transport for rehabilitation purposes. Currently, there is no live animal test for CWD, and infected animals often show no signs of illness for years in spite of being infectious for other animals. Movement for rehabilitation purposes may speed geographic spread of the disease.
The DNR will act immediately to test an additional 300 deer within the CWD surveillance zone in Kent County. The DNR will be cooperating with local officials to collect fresh road-killed deer, and will be urging deer hunters participating in the early antlerless season on private land in September to comply with the mandatory deer check.
Landowners in Kent County CWD surveillance zone who would like to obtain disease control permits to cull deer from their property and assist with the collection of deer for testing should contact the DNR's Wildlife Disease Lab at 517-336-5030. Permits will be available immediately upon request. Landowners who do not want to cull deer, but want to participate in the collection of deer for testing, can obtain assistance from the DNR in culling deer.
DNR officials reminded citizens that, to date, there is no evidence that CWD poses a risk to humans, nor has there been verified evidence that the disease can be transmitted to humans.
CWD is a fatal neurological disease that affects deer, elk and moose. Most cases of the disease have been in western states, but in the past several years, it has spread to Midwestern and eastern states. Infected animals display abnormal behaviors, loss of bodily functions and a progressive weight loss. Current evidence suggests that the disease is transmitted through infectious, self-multiplying proteins (prions). Prions are normal cell proteins whose shape has been transformed, causing CWD. The disease is transmitted by exposure to saliva of infected animals. Susceptible animals can also acquire CWD by eating feces from an infected animal, or soil contaminated by them. Once contaminated, soil can remain a source of infection for many years, making CWD a particularly difficult disease to manage.

WEST MICHIGAN DELTA WATERFOWL RAFFLE

2008 West Michigan Delta Waterfowl Boat Raffle

For our Grand Prize we've partnered with Sport Fisherman Center, Muskegon's premier boat dealer to bring you a wonderfully loaded 648 War Eagle boat. This boat features Max-4 camo, gun boxes, lights, 20hp four stroke Yamaha motor, and trailer valued at over $8,000!!!

If that wasn't enough...We also have three fine shotguns in this raffle.

1st Prize is a Browning Gold Superlite 12ga. Shotgun-Delta 2008 gun of the year.

2nd Prize is a Viper 12ga semi-auto shotgun by tristar.

3rd Prize is a Pardner camo 12ga. pump shotgun by H&R.TICKET PRICE:

$50 PER TICKET ONLY 300 TICKETS ARE BEING SOLD!!!
DRAWING WILL BE HELD OCTOBER 1ST, 2008,

7:00PM AT SEAWAY GUN CLUB,

3400 W BARD ROAD, NORTH MUSKEGON, MI 49445.

CONTACT SUE FOR TICKETS

MsSnarky@comcast.net

(231) 777-3037

Grand prize winner responsible for tax, title, registration, and pick up of boat from dealer in Muskegon Michigan.

**If less than 175 tickets are sold, drawing becomes a 50/50 raffle.

Who's Who, Downy or Hairy Woodpeckers

The most obvious difference is size. The hairy woodpecker is about 1/3 longer than the downy and weighs almost 3 times as much!

Yet when you see one alone, without the other for comparison, it can be tricky to identify it on size alone.

So look at the bill. The downy's bill is tiny in proportion to the head.

The hairy's bill is large. Here's a thought experiment. Mentally turn each bird's bill around, so that it points toward the back of the bird's head. How far across the head does it appear to extend?

The bill of the downy woodpecker (a female in this case, on the left) is noticeably shorter than the width of the head. The bill of the hairy woodpecker (which happens to be a male, on the right, with red on the back of his head), goes almost the full width of the head. That's the most reliable way to tell the two apart. Even if you see one alone, at such a distance that you can't evaluate the bird's size, you'll be able to notice how long the bill is compared to the head. Another clue is the white outer tail feathers. On the hairy woodpecker, the outer feathers are pure white. On the downy, there are usually black or gray spots along the sides of the white outer tail feathers. You can just make out the dark spots on the side of the downy woodpecker's tail in the photo above.

Their calls distinguish them also. The rattling call of the hairy woodpecker is mostly on the same pitch. But the downy's call drops down (for downy) in pitch.

In each species, the male and female are about the same size. If you see a big difference between the size of two of these woodpeckers, you'll know you're looking at a downy and a hairy, not male and female of one species.

DEER TRACKS

The size of a deer track will help you to determine the size of the deer. As a deer grows, their feet will grow accordingly. Big mature bucks will leave big and deep tracks. In soft ground the dew claws will show on both bucks and does. Rounded tips on hoofs are a result of hoof wear usually due to rocky or other abrasive surfaces and has little to do with weather the deer is a buck or a doe.

When analyzing deer tracks in shallow snow, look to see which deer are dragging their feet. It is believed that bucks drag their feet to conserve energy. In deeper snow all deer will drag their feet. Another trick for snow tracking is to watch for antler impressions in the snow. When a large buck is checking the trail for a doe in estrus, his horns will sometimes leave an impression in the snow. This will also show you how wide his antler spread is.

Once you have found a good track in the snow, you can follow it to find travel routes, feeding areas, watering areas and bedding areas.

When a deer walks, they will place their back hoof in the track of their front hoof. If the second track falls slightly to the outside of the first, it is probably a doe because a doe's hind quarters are wider than her chest. The wider hind quarters of a doe are required for giving birth. If the second track falls slightly to the inside and short of the first track, then it is probably a buck track since a buck's chest is wider than his hind quarters and his body is longer.

Catfish Success

Try your hand at catfishing it's great fun.
My nephews Brian, Bill and my brother Scott had a great afternoon fishing, this is a fun family event.

Catfish Fishing in Michigan

There are many species of catfish and even more ways to catch them. Adults range in size from less than a pound to hundreds of pounds. They can be found in all types of water including ponds, streams, lakes and rivers. There are even species which spend a limited amount of time on dry land. Big giant catfish put up a very noble fight once hooked.


Catfish Fishing Lakes In Michigan

Many rivers in Michigan have catfish. They can also be found in ponds and small lakes across the state. The larger schools tend to come from major bodies of water including Brevoort Lake, Fletcher Pond, Hamlin Lake, Higgins Lake, Houghton Lake, Hubbard Lake, Lake Erie, Lake Huron, Lake Michigan and Lake Superior.



The Michigan state record channel catfish was caught from Houghton Lake and the Maple River gave up the state record flathead catfish.

Most catfish are considered bottom feeders to one extent or another. They will generally eat anything that can get in their mouth. Their strongest sense is smell which they use to locate potential food sources. Capitalizing on this sense is the primary weapon in your search for these creatures. Aggressive catfish have been caught on most types of fast moving bass lures so don't under estimate their ability to catch live bait.

Fishing for Channel Catfish
Channel cats can be caught most any time of year except in extreme cold water conditions. The best time of year tends to be spring and fall followed by summer and lastly winter. Channel catfish favor crawfish and small fish, so look for them at varying depths where there is rock or gravel that attracts the crawfish or other forms of cover that attracts baitfish and other small fish. In the warmer summer months catfish can be found in areas with moss, which they feed on.



Fishing For Flathead Catfish
Flatheads are caught primarily on bait like live shiners and chubs and only occasionally on cut or prepared baits. They are the second largest of the catfishes and lie in cover of submerged logs or other large structures. Prime fishing time for catching flathead catfish is after dark.

Catfish Baits
If it resembles food in any way and emits scent or an odor it is likely to attract the interest of catfish. Every ardent catfish expert has their own secret recipe. The ingredients range from natural prey of fish and fowl to non-food items like soap and chemicals. Chicken, shrimp, liver and stink baits are the most common ingredients. The long whiskers of the catfish are always in search of an easy meal.

Suet Log Feeder

This Suet Log Feeder is very easy to construct. You will need a log, a screw on hook and perches. Here are some instructions, but you can use your own ideas the birds will still use whatever type of log feeder you construct.
Cut a log that is approximately 9 1/2-10" in circumference with a length of 16". The log shown in the picture on the right is of white-barked birch. The log does not have to be straight. This log is slightly bent.
Drill a hole that is 1 1/4" round all the way through to the other side.
Start at the top of the log.
Drill another hole, again 1 1/4" round all the way through, but this time turn the log so that it does not line up with the first hole that was drilled. See Picture.
Drill the next hole, below the second hole.
Drill the last hole, but align it with the first hole that was drilled.
(optional) Drill 8 holes, 1 1/2" in depth (not all the way through). The perch holes should be 1/4" below the 1 1/4" round holes that hold the suet. Perches should be at least 3" in length. Insert the perches and tighten.
Screw the hook at the top for hanging.
Fill the 1 1/4" holes with Suet. That's it!

Here is a suet recipe that you can use, as it cools and begins to get hard pack into holes or freeze in something that will fit your size holes.

Birder's Delight
1 Pound Suet cut in small pieces
1 Cup Yellow Cornmeal
1 Cup Rolled Oats
1 Cup Chunky Peanut Butter
1 Cup Mixed Wild Bird Seed
1 Cup Hulled Sunflower Seed or Chopped Pecans
Preparation:
Melt suet over low flame.
Stir in ingredients.
Pour or pack into molds, feeders, or saved suet plastic containers.
Refrigerate until hardened or freeze.

No-Wobble Tray Feeder

Creatures great and small will enjoy dining at this sturdy, portable feeder.

If you enjoy seeing a variety of animals feeding in your backyard, this easy-to-build triangular feeder is all you'll need to attract a crowd.
Cardinals and other "tray feeders" will love it...and the low platform will attract birds that feed close to the ground like dark-eyed juncos and mourning doves.
You'll also see plenty of squirrels and chipmunks, so keep the tray well stocked with cracked corn. (If these furry critters can count on a reliable food supply here, they'll be less likely to disturb other feeders set up only for birds.)
One of our Birds & Blooms editors came up with the idea for this unique triangular feeder. The three legs prevent wobbling no matter where you put it in your yard. Plus, it's lightweight enough to move with ease.
Here's What You'll Need...
One 8-foot 2 x 2
One 3-foot 1-inch x 8-inch board (or 4-foot 2 x 4)
One 2-foot-square piece of metal window screen
2-1/2-inch and 2-inch galvanized deck screws
Waterproof carpenter's glue
Masking tape
Recommended Tools...
Table or miter saw
Heavy-duty stapler

Start with the Tray
1. To make the seed tray, cut three 24-inch lengths from
an 8-foot 2 x 2 with 60° opposing angles on each end (remove
30° on each cut).
2. On a flat surface, fit the pieces together with the
edges overlapping and temporarily fasten them with carpenter’s
glue. Hold the joints tight with masking tape.
When the glue is dry, drill a pilot hole in each corner and
secure with 2-1/2-inch deck screws.
3. From a 2-foot-square piece of screen, cut out a triangle
that fits the frame, extending about halfway between
the inner and outer edge of the frame. Staple the screen to
the wood securely, leaving about 1 inch between staples.
4. For the legs, rip three 2-1/2-inch widths from a 3-foot
1-inch x 8-inch board. Cut each piece to 16 inches. If you
want a more finished appearance, bevel the tops of the
legs 15°. The legs can also be made from 2 x 4’s to reduce
warping.
5. Position a leg so it bridges the joint of the frame (see
plan and photo at right). Then predrill two holes for the
screws, being careful not to hit the screws holding the seed
tray together.
6. Use 2-inch deck screws to attach each leg to
the frame. (To make the tray a little sturdier for
chunky wildlife, you can glue the leg joints with carpenter’s
glue before driving the screws.)
Now fill the tray with seed and cracked corn—it
shouldn’t take long for the neighborhood critters to
discover the banquet you’ve set out for them!